|
|
mills
Novice
Mar 6, 2015, 12:14 PM
Post #1 of 9
(3381 views)
|
Daf cf 430 turning over not starting engine warning light on ,any suggestions?
|
|
| |
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Mar 6, 2015, 1:08 PM
Post #2 of 9
(3373 views)
|
What the heck is this thing year make model and fuel used? Warning lights in almost anything if it doesn't run but in "run" position would light so means little right now. Can you expound a little what this is please? T
|
|
| |
|
mills
Novice
Mar 6, 2015, 2:01 PM
Post #3 of 9
(3362 views)
|
2004 430 CF Daf Articulated Tractor Unit .Fuel Diesel. turned truck off got back in 2 mins later and tried turn on would not start just turning over and over. Engine warning light on as turning over kept trying would not start. Next day plugged in with mechanic got ecu fault , we have checked cam wires, loom wires none broken. All fuses and relays ok. After hours disconnected and reconnectedreconnected battery and truck started. truck running perfect orange warning engine fault and alternator warningg on dash. Batteries are chargingcharging and alternator ok, mechanic puzzled,
|
|
| |
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Mar 6, 2015, 2:42 PM
Post #4 of 9
(3357 views)
|
OK - Being a diesel takes me out for more than basics of how they work and ends there. Alternator, fuses and relays and how checked I can help with and you need to check those electrically not by any looks of anything. Volts engine off and voltage when running taken at battery should do for now. Make sure belt(s) to it are snug enough and battery connections (perhaps more than one battery on this) are all good. If dual batteries they like to be exactly the same - just know that or use one at a time if possible for testing things out. Fuses test by voltmeter while that circuit is empowered. Relays too. Looks means little. Some a rap/tap on a weak or bad one will snap them to meaning toss that one even if it works. 12v (is it?) range for it should be if perfect 12.2v just setting there with known batteries charged up. Then when run range of about 13+ up to 15ish. Can vary some but never stay below 13v. Turn blowers, lights and anything that uses power on and it should stay in range even at idle speed. If not it would set off a warning. Bad enough if it isn't charging worse if charging toooo much! Everything in the truck is counting on voltages to be in range or it won't know what to do with itself. If that's off then I don't trust codes for much till that's taken care of. Many alternators have internal regulators or could be regulated by computer control so would test fine off vehicle - know that too. Tell me/us if this uses two batteries as that's a place for troubles as said, T
|
|
| |
|
mills
Novice
Mar 6, 2015, 2:54 PM
Post #5 of 9
(3352 views)
|
Thanks for reply, it's 24volts dual battery. Previous to this problem occurring if the truck was left idle over a weekend for example it would need to be jump started anymore than 2 days not enough power to turn engine over. Only since engine warning light and truck not starting I am getting alternator warning light also, acaccording to mechanic batteries are getting a charge
|
|
| |
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Mar 6, 2015, 3:18 PM
Post #6 of 9
(3348 views)
|
We have a tech much better at this type "Tractor" truck if you will and the 24volt issues. I can say that if this is two 12v batteries in series you get your 24v system and all items are made for that and want correct voltage. So - if you let it sit it doesn't have power enough from batteries. Fundamentals: A parasitic drain OR for some reason dual batteries can fight with each other. In general electric "things" of all sorts want their voltage right. Low voltage actually makes things HOT when low and unable to work properly such as relays with points inside (many) can stick, motors get hot as well even a starter should just flutter if power isn't enough so it doesn't kill itself. If two 12v batteries guess I would charge them each with 12v charger disconnected from each other. I actually have a 24v charger but for a handicapped scooter that was indeed 24v and two small gel cell batteries. Best I can do for you is that this thing should have correct amps and voltage and seems it's not right somewhere. IMO worth double checking each battery and the connection are good just anyway plus perhaps test each that they have similar power and ability under load on their own is about all I can really help with, Tom
|
|
| |
|
mills
Novice
Mar 6, 2015, 3:37 PM
Post #7 of 9
(3345 views)
|
Thanks for your help will try tomorrow will keep you updated. Can I ask 1 more question. If 1 of the 12v batteries in the truck is not working the way it should ie 100percent capacity ,would this give the wrong signal to the ecu when trying to start the truck ?
|
|
| |
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Mar 6, 2015, 3:58 PM
Post #8 of 9
(3339 views)
|
In what way is this ONE battery not the way it should be? Said before with still some limited understanding that they can fight with each other kind of like one trying to make the other match it for volt level. Weak on the detailed reasons - sorry just knew of it when done for any reason in parallel or in series to achieve voltage you require. Fun facts you didn't ask: Inside a battery there are cells in series you don't see. It's like 6 individual batteries within a 12v battery and if one is out of line can wreck a whole battery - same idea in a way. In short this seems like a problem area to have solved before any other issue is going to really show itself if anything else at all? T
|
|
| |
|
mills
Novice
Mar 6, 2015, 4:01 PM
Post #9 of 9
(3336 views)
|
Thanks
|
|
| |
|