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dave284
Enthusiast
Mar 11, 2008, 8:37 AM
Post #26 of 31
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Tom, after some trying, got pic uploaded that damm camera is just as bad as the puter to many buttons close together the size of a pin head anyhow I got the pics of the carb diagram, couldn't get it in one frame.
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dave284
Enthusiast
Mar 11, 2008, 7:17 PM
Post #27 of 31
(1668 views)
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O.K. Tom, I test drove the van again it seems to be shifting a little better, this thing is weird acting, I set the choke right but it was hard to crank kept patting gas pedal, oncne started it cranked on the dime everytime I wondering now about the choke, one step foward two steps back and adjusted back barrel mixture screws from 1 turn - 31/2 and the 4bl still never opened up even at 75mph,wtf?
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Mar 11, 2008, 7:53 PM
Post #28 of 31
(1666 views)
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Ok: Last pic showed the "governor assy" - - I think that's the trouble!
With choke: Does this guy have the marks on the spring housing indicating richer or leaner? It might want a notch richer or for tighter choke when cold but that has nothing to do with it warmed up.
?? How much hair do you have left??
T
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dave284
Enthusiast
Mar 12, 2008, 6:37 AM
Post #29 of 31
(1663 views)
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http://www.autozone.com/.../repairInfoPages.htm Tom down to a couple of strands, stayed up late last night and found the carb its a 4180C 4V and I'm gonna replace the choke on it , but why does the back barrels refuse to open?
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Mar 12, 2008, 5:20 PM
Post #30 of 31
(1655 views)
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Sorry to take so long to respond: Checked out that link which really shows how much is involved with dinky little adjustment that can stop a train if wrong.
You didn't rebuild this from the start did you? Even if you did there are things that go wrong. Choke working properly is critical - you know that. The 4V not opening is not in my cache of direct know how for this exact carb but in general back barrels are restricted from opening fully at least till choke if fully off and the adjustements then allow the back plates to open. That could be a 1mm bend in a rod or something stopping the show.
Basics to understand: Carb is mechanically doing and sensing everything same as electronically controlled anythings still do out of sight. The objective is getting fuel to atomize as raw gas doesn't do squat - it must be a vapor. So all the bull with choke and the various speeds desired have to adjust the mixture ratio to comply. When cold the gas is actually sweating on the inside of the manifold to you up the % of gas to air to compensate which is the choke's job and it must quit that like a good boy when done or it's the problem.
Carbs struggle to add right mixture when suddenly asked for various levels of power up to WOT or bog right out - noted by many.
Basics again: Carb is really just two settings. Idle and WOT. All the rest is a combination of the two called intermediate. That is: At idle WOT items don't count much and at WOT the idle things are no longer involved. If all that was ever needed is one constant speed at a given temp and load a carb could be one drilled hole in a puddle of gas.
Vacuum is what the engine is making all the time when turning. Nothing but atmospheric pressure trying to fill the void is the force. When idling it doesn't get all it wants so that vacuum # is high and noted by carb. When at part to full throttle carb feeds so much air into that vacuum that the real # is lost but is imitated by the "venturi" effect of air speed going thru it. You need to understand what that is. That goes on inside and unseen thru the tiny bores in the throat of the carb.
Ok: You can watch the carb do the mechanical things if you use all three hands (smile) holding throttle in a position, choke in a postion and diaphrams held to what would be expected for vacuum at each position.
With funky tools like hand held vacuum pump, drill bits for measurements and more you can set on on the bench and get it damn close. Even better is to have top off and see float level stay constant which can be done on the bench with fuel if you have all that junk or some on the engine to fine tune. It's a nighmare by design to get perfect and many aren't perfect when new so it's salt in the wound when not right. It's really the whole reason carbs are extint because there is so much fine detail that must be right that car maker's gave up as it's too fussy to make these parts perfect to begin with so that's where the hair loss comes in now.
Find out what is stopping the back barrels as they are confusing the whole show. It's harder with this job as you have a new trans and this carb thing going on at the same time. Engine must behave first or it will confuse the trans.
I'm with you buddy best I can. It's hard when this stuff is in front of you and that much harder when it's not!
Kitty says - "Just give me the damn Fancy Feast" and forget all this nonsense
T
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dave284
Enthusiast
Mar 12, 2008, 6:19 PM
Post #31 of 31
(1569 views)
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Well Tom, I,m at my last hair on my head, I odered a choke thermostat, I kept adjusting it to a point where I'm about to go crazy, its alot better than it was, I let the owner test drive it ,he did and he still notice a strain on the engine so when I get the new choke on he's geting it back damm the back barrels if he is happy with it so am I. I did however let him know gas price at $4.00 a gal he wouldn't be doing much riding unless he's got more money than sense plus I said no matter what you do that vehicle is gonna drink gas like a hog I believe the van was good in its day,but as a transport to work.... a bad investment. Tom its been a pain the a$$ for me and probaly a thorn in yours and what it does next I'm not going to bother you with it. cause it bothers the hell out me I wish he never brought it here I appreciate the time and effort you have put in to this and I hope I can do the same for you, I get you back at christmas..... thanks alot.....catch you on the post
dave284
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