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2006 Kia rio5 mystery startup issue
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Kingapplesauce
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Nov 22, 2011, 3:06 PM
Post #1 of 18
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2006 Kia rio5 mystery startup issue
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I honestly feel I've tried everything I'm capable of the only thing that comes on in the car is the door ajar light; no head lights, no interior lights, no engine cranking, no nothing, just the door ajar light. And when I turn the key the door ajar light turns off completely. I've replaced the battery and checked all the relays and nada. Any ideas? I'd love for this thing to start .
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Nov 22, 2011, 3:15 PM
Post #2 of 18
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Re: 2006 Kia rio5 mystery startup issue
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Do you get voltage at the other ends of battery cables generally at starter for positive and block for negative, then ground straps to body metal here and there throughout. Many checks to find and probably something silly. Check battery voltage itself at posts not clamps and again at clamps. Begin with the simple stuff and bet you find a near total loss of ground to engine block. Try positive post to bolt of negative cable to block and have someone try to start it. Bet a test light goes out, T
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Sidom
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Nov 22, 2011, 3:24 PM
Post #3 of 18
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Sounds like Tom is right on the money on this one.... There isn't any other history here, is there, like try to jump it and getting a bunch of sparks????
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Kingapplesauce
Novice
Nov 22, 2011, 5:14 PM
Post #4 of 18
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No sparks. But there were a few times where the car just wouldn't start but when I tried again it would start up just fine. There was some corrosion on the battery and I've cleaned that up. I'll give what Tom suggested a try, but I have to wait till morning. It's already dark here and I don't have a good light to work in.
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Kingapplesauce
Novice
Nov 22, 2011, 5:30 PM
Post #5 of 18
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Also, do you think it could be the alternator? It's been suggested a few times by some coworkers.
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Sidom
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Nov 22, 2011, 7:50 PM
Post #6 of 18
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It's very possible you could have a charging issue going on..... The main thing now is to get it to start. Barring getting any cables crossed or anything like that and Tom's info should lead you to the problem... After you get it going, just put a voltmeter on the battery & note the voltage, start it up and look at it again. With it off it should be in the 12.3 to 12. 6 range, running you would want to see it in the 14v range.
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Kingapplesauce
Novice
Nov 22, 2011, 8:57 PM
Post #7 of 18
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Ok, since I'm on my own right now, and a lot of this is new for me, do you guys think you can help me with a step by step?
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Mr.scotty
Enthusiast
Nov 22, 2011, 9:46 PM
Post #8 of 18
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I think it would be a great idea for you to go pick up a repair manual for your car. You'll learn stuff and it will help you with your problem, the Haynes manuals you can buy at most parts stores have a trouble shooter guide in them too that might help you. -------------------------------------------------------- Your only as good as your tools!
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Sidom
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Nov 22, 2011, 9:49 PM
Post #9 of 18
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Lets keep it simple...........You said there was corrosion on the battery before.....Unless you got it real clean, this could be your whole problem. Start off with getting one these, a battery terminal cleaner Disconnect both terminals and clean the inside of the terminals real good and the battery posts as well.. Even though I know you've done this, I gotta say it any way,,,,,make sure the plastic caps on the battery posts of the new battery have been removed....... and we'll go from there...
(This post was edited by Sidom on Nov 22, 2011, 9:51 PM)
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
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Nov 23, 2011, 12:58 AM
Post #10 of 18
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Yes - really clean as tool Sidom showed, other wire brushes for other areas/connections. Grease with either battery cable connections or whole new cables if rotted too much - either end or some cheap junk wire can give out inside insulation unseen - may be stretchy at a spot, trauma from other work - who knows you need to know they are all good. This is ever more common and about no exception car makers want the least gauge of anything that can work. Good old lead and fine stranded copper are not found like they used to be, T PS: Re: Subject line - "Mystery Start up Issue" no mystery - this is common!
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Kingapplesauce
Novice
Nov 23, 2011, 10:27 AM
Post #11 of 18
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The clamps are clean and there is zero corrosion now. But just to return to an earlier statement, I should put the negative clamp on the positive post of the car battery then try starting it? What should I do with the positive clamp?
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Kingapplesauce
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Nov 23, 2011, 10:46 AM
Post #13 of 18
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No worries, I didn't. But in all honestly I can't figure out what was implied up there.
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Kingapplesauce
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Nov 23, 2011, 10:49 AM
Post #15 of 18
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"simple stuff and bet you find a near total loss of ground to engine block. Try positive post to bolt of negative cable to block and have someone try to start it. Bet a test light goes out," Im assuming I just read it wrong...
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Sidom
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Nov 23, 2011, 11:29 AM
Post #16 of 18
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This was a test to check the grounds. Tom was talking about using a test light......Most of the time test lights are used to check for power but can also be used to check grounds.... To check grounds you hook the clip of the test light to the positive terminal of the battery. Then any metal piece you touch will light up the light. With that setup, if you touch the engine block, the light would light up indicating a ground connection. When the key is turned, if the light goes out, that would indicate a bad ground circuit and would be where your trouble lies.....
(This post was edited by Sidom on Nov 23, 2011, 11:31 AM)
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Kingapplesauce
Novice
Nov 23, 2011, 4:56 PM
Post #17 of 18
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Could it be the alternator?
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Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
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Nov 23, 2011, 5:00 PM
Post #18 of 18
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That question has been asked and answered. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
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