|
|
|
Mazda (and auto shop) troubles
|
|
|
| |
|
|
autofool
New User
Jan 10, 2009, 2:27 PM
Post #1 of 4
(1444 views)
|
|
Mazda (and auto shop) troubles
|
Sign In
|
|
Ok--2000 Mazda Protégé 1.6 with 160,000 miles--A while back I noticed a miss early in the morning going to work (a 63 mile trip one way). Under the hood, I noticed a sparking between one of the coil packs and the plug boot. The spark and the miss were in perfect sync! I went to work--at highway speeds the miss mostly disappeared. Before leaving the small city to return, I stopped at a parts place to see if they had the coil (which would have the boot included) --they didn’t, but a guy suggested using high-heat silicone and that's what I did. The miss went away and I was happy. But later wanted to "do things the right way" so I bought a coil and replaced it. However, I tightened one of the two bolts too much and it broke off. When I went to start the car--I could not get it started. It would turn over fine and sound like it would start in any second--but didn't.
I drove in another car to a repair shop and the guy there told me that Auto Zone must have sold me a defective coil pack (he ranted about trusting O'reilly's only) When I went to Auto Zone--they told me that since I didn't disconnect the battery before changing the coil pack--I "fried" the coil. But he swapped it out for another one. I replaced that one (after disconnecting the battery) and had the same disappointing results--couldn't get the car started.
I had a friend of mine check to see if I got fire to each of the plugs and I did-as a matter of fact--the pack in question threw him a big jolt when he touched it accidentally. Satisfied that each of these coils were ok, I pulled the car to a place of business. I asked them if they thought having a broken bolt in the valve cover would prevent the car from starting. I told them that the other bolt was very secure and the coil was so tight that it couldn't be moved by hand. The guy said that the broken bolt wasn't the problem and that he thought that the cam sensor had to be replaced. I got a cam sensor and he replaced it (2 minutes) and the car had the same symptom.
Later the owner of the shop came in and I overheard him tell the worker that the cam sensor would have nothing to do with the problem.
Next, the owner said that he would have to check the compression--he did and the compression checked out ok so he thought that it would probably be a jumped timing. He removed the cover and wanted me to look at what he called evidence of time---when the belt came to the top there was a little "whip" ( my description) It didn't appear that the belt jumped the grooves, but he thought that it would need a new timing belt and kit. I went home and found and ordered the belt and kit from O'Reilly's. I called him a little later to tell him when the part would be in and he said--the timing is not the problem--He said that he had "run a ground from one side of the coil (with the broken bolt) and was able to get the car running. He said that I needed a new valve cover so that the coil could be properly grounded.
Later when the valve cover was acquired (used one costing $100.00 and $45 for someone to drive 70 miles round-trip to remove it) He replaced the valve cover and told me that I will need another coil--(somehow the other became defective). So--he another coil.
Then the day (one week from the start) came when he told me that the car was fixed! I paid him $407.29 for 3 hours of labor, a used valve cover and the coil AND $31.96 for spark plugs! When I started the car--It missed! But since, we had been trying to start it so much I figured maybe going down the highway my burn off the plugs etc. Well—every time I put it in gear, it died. I wouldn’t take a load. So I called him to the parking lot and he started asking me about gasoline—He said that he thought it was bad gas. I told him that I am far from a mechanic, but the fact that the car had been running fine on that same gas before, I couldn’t believe that it’s the gas. He looked under the car and told me—“It’s a stopped up catalytic converter” So—we ordered one.
Yesterday, when I went to pick up the car, I was told, “It’s the map sensor”. I checked today and saw that the old catalytic converter was still out of the car and was told that they’re waiting for the sensor. AND--they put the sensor in and if it works, then it’s the sensor, and they’ll put the catalytic converter back in. But if the sensor doesn’t work, they’ll have to put a new catalytic converter in. He told me that he would have it ready by 5:00 PM which is about 40 minutes away as I type.
Any advice?
|
|
| |
|
|
Jeff Norfolk
Enthusiast
Jan 10, 2009, 5:00 PM
Post #2 of 4
(1440 views)
|
|
Re: Mazda (and auto shop) troubles
|
Sign In
|
|
Have him put your car back together, pay him what you owe him, cut your losses and find a shop with some sort of diagnostic ability. These guys sound like they have none. They seem to be putting parts on in hopes that they may accidentely fix it. If you let them keep putting parts on they will eventually fix it, but do you really want to wait to see how much and how long? Get away as soon as you can.
Jeff
|
|
| |
|
|
Loren Champlain Sr
Veteran
/ Moderator
Jan 10, 2009, 5:17 PM
Post #3 of 4
(1438 views)
|
|
Re: Mazda (and auto shop) troubles
|
Sign In
|
|
Right on, Jeff!
Loren
SW Washington
|
|
| |
|
|
autofool
New User
Jan 10, 2009, 8:24 PM
Post #4 of 4
(1426 views)
|
|
Re: Mazda (and auto shop) troubles
|
Sign In
|
|
Thanks for the advice !!!
|
|
| |
|
Auto Repair Home
SEARCH
WHO'S 
LOG 
1989 toyota pickup 3.0 crank no start
Please Help - Knock sound & engine fail
