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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Aug 6, 2015, 12:30 PM
Post #51 of 65
(1204 views)
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OUTSIDE AIR IN FLORIDA'S HUMIDITY your performance is as I would expect! Next job is to find out why and what is broken.
IMO - there's no need for a "fresh" air choice for A/C. Open a dang window. Heat is TMK always outdoor air as it's easy to heat air in comparison. So this door IMO is the whole issue or most of it. I don't think you can just force it for recirc and leave it alone but not sure on that?
Now I would need to look all around to see why it isn't working that. Vacuum diaphragm at actuator or what. Sorry - that part I plain don't know what was used so would have to look right at it,
Tom
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Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Aug 6, 2015, 1:54 PM
Post #52 of 65
(1198 views)
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All the air doors are cable operated.
Just curious but is this cooling just the truck cab or the whole camper along with the cab?
Since we volunteer our time and knowledge, we ask for you to please follow up when a problem is resolved.
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jjrbus
User
Aug 6, 2015, 3:21 PM
Post #53 of 65
(1185 views)
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Many people put a curtain up and only cool the cab. There is a separate roof air for the camper. Jim
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jjrbus
User
Aug 6, 2015, 3:26 PM
Post #54 of 65
(1184 views)
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DS is right. Everything is cable operated and appears to be functioning properly. What appears to be broke and what should I be looking for?? This is 20 year old tech and is fairly simple to work on. Except for AC, I don't know anything about AC!
Jim
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Aug 6, 2015, 4:15 PM
Post #55 of 65
(1183 views)
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Hmmm. Game changer - If this is cooling an interior of a camper and not just the cab it's essentially not getting much pre cooled recirculated air - which would up ^^ the vent temp outputs IMO. I see the need for the curtain idea totally.
IDK - Try this: Check under the dash what the air temp is being drawn in to cool on recirculate. It can't cool all outdoors but on low fan the "residence" time of air passing thru evap would show the lowest possible temp out vents still I would think,
T
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jjrbus
User
Aug 6, 2015, 5:53 PM
Post #56 of 65
(1178 views)
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I am subject to 2 much internet information. I've read test with windows down, outside air only, inside air only, regular idle, hi idle, 1500 rpm, 2000 rpm.
What would be the preferred way to test?? I can block off the cabin part with little effort. I am testing in full Florida sun, guess I could go park under a tree someplace.
Many Thanks Jim
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Aug 7, 2015, 3:48 AM
Post #57 of 65
(1166 views)
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Jim - This is clearly a real twist. You did say it was a camper and that draws a different image to me perhaps than what you are saying now with it wide open to the back. It's an oven on wheels and probably Toyota nor any really thought the original A/C was ever going to cool the whole dang thing nor know what creation the chassis would become.
We know how fast a vehicle can heat up just in the sun. This is just that much more area. The "home" A/C biz that I only touch upon if something isn't right with things like that isn't the same as per pros at my own home and observation taken by me.
That was expressed in air temp "in" and air temp "outputs" - yadda- yadda. Got it. You don't go to a building that's 110F inside that's left alone for a long time like that and 1,2,3 suddenly it's all wonderful and cool inside.
So for this I/we have to think "RV" more than the truck front you have and that A/C. It's essentially way overwhelmed if warm to hot out at all. I dare say with almost no hands on experience that you are supposed to have an on board generator and roof top air conditioning going as well if you really wanted it liveably climate controlled while driving it.
That would be the design for each configuration of camper creation out there or passenger bus what you would do.
In short - you are in battle with more heat either inside or out than an OE Toyota truck was expected to constantly drop the temps lower than some you have posted.
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You asked about RPMs and what is best. Most IMO items on engine will work at peak (assorted accessories) at between 1,500 and 2,000. Double that doesn't double A/C, Alternator output, PS power for examples. That just for that as a running and moving vehicle.
I can see that a curtain for cab on what I imagine this thing is like would be the answer for driving it in Summer heat and the better the curtain the more like a pick up truck's A/C behavior it would be while underway.
If that's the objective than that's what I would concentrate on. I default to what RV places might have for the least invasive, most effective materials to do that.
Jim - you've had remarkable staying power with this. It's old, converted refrigerant and that alone would be a challenge never mind being an open RV,
Tom
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jjrbus
User
Aug 7, 2015, 6:09 AM
Post #58 of 65
(1160 views)
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I posted this morning before you Tom, don't know what happened? Gremlins?
80 degrees ambiant temp, we are having cold snap! 89% humidity
Static pressure is 90 & 90
Seal off passenger compartment from house, close windows and doors and put air on recycle.
Start unit and in 5 min have lo of 28 and high of 190.
Engine reaches operating temperature and show 38 lo and 205 hi
Holy Bat Dung Batman the vent temp is 41!!! Yes forty one!
Meat locker! Have discrepancy on vent temp, thermometer reads 41° and IR gun shows 32° Not sure I trust IR gun here?
Have not taken for ride yet will report back when I do.
I did not think of closing off cab as the class A motor home I had cooled the house area also. Jim
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Aug 7, 2015, 7:30 AM
Post #59 of 65
(1155 views)
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This looks good. No gremlins out there you posted this same post on another person's thread and I locked that one up. Readable but not more posting on another person's issue.
I really figured with the thought of how big of an area you have to cool as said. Seems things ARE in order.
As for discrepancies with IR thermos it's either wrong or testing method might be flawed. IDK - play with new ones till you trust them for what they do.
So - for this truck as a camper I'll call it much like having one window shaker unit at home and leaving other windows open or try to cool an entire home with one - doesn't work that way in a multiple room home.
Sounds good. Test it so you know what to expect on given days - now just temps and put the gauges away as I think this is about done.
Stay cool, Tom
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jjrbus
User
Aug 8, 2015, 6:01 AM
Post #60 of 65
(1140 views)
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Have not had a chance to road test this yet.
I have 100,000 more questions about AC. But just one now that confuses me.
The charts for my AC system call for 26.5oz of 134A I am no where near that at 20oz in my system and my pressures are lower than what charts state for any given temperature. Should I try to add a bit of 134 to bring pressures up inline with charts?
Jim
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Aug 8, 2015, 6:39 AM
Post #61 of 65
(1138 views)
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IMO - charts for pressure plain stink! General areas where pressures and amounts perform ALL TEMPERATURE SENSITIVE so much so as temps change so much even while observing.
OE this R-12 Toyota would have had a sight glass on a receiver drier I think or in line. That no longer counts.
Once changed to 134a it will matter what has been changed since it had known new everything. A new condenser wouldn't be a tube and fin changes the show.
Somewhere in some recent posts you had credible pressures and performance. If that's where it works best how do you argue with it?
Said somewhere retrofitting I personally would begin with ~65% of a known charge. I don't think you really have a known charge pre-determined by Toyota or what parts changed - right?
This is worth the read I must have posted before if not read it. This was in cooperation with Nacho from an A/C only site now here. Still lacks as long as it is for every possible issue.
>> http://autoforums.carjunky.com/..._A/C_SYSTEMS_P45460/
A/C is a course of study not a quick learn it once an it's all the same all the time. Some things about it don't lie - performance when you know the conditions at that moment.
OK - I'll go look for the temp/pressure ratio chart to make this post even longer...........
>>
^^ Was there.
That part is carved in stone. With the real world performance so much counts it's blinding. Humidity you do mention. A soaking wet evap isn't going to absorb (it not blowing cold it's absorbing heat) heat as well and in this case you really aren't getting great dry return air to re-cool so it's a one time, one specific vehicle and situation as to what will work best. If next week it isn't right in similar conditions first suspect a leak!
Seriously - there's so much to know just in the science of it. Physics, why calories need 2 units to change state yet a temp remains the same!!!! -- on and on and on.
Lowest charge that worked in recent history was a car with a license plate required by my state really was blocking airflow thru grille! Now that car maker probably made the specs without a plate on it not knowing if required or what - right?
Appreciate the interest in it. If that fascinated really study it for the why and how it works. Exceptions when put to an application will always come up. Not usually very easy or fast for something like your situation,
Tom
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jjrbus
User
Aug 8, 2015, 10:48 AM
Post #62 of 65
(1131 views)
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Thanks Tom not only for all the info, but also with your patience with me.
I've read extensively on internet. Internet is loaded with some great info and lots of misinformation!
So mind that is not so good is loaded with info and misinfo, plus does not remember real good.
In my reading I found that lubricating oil is transported by 134A in system. So seems like less gas would equal less lubrication of compressor.
on the surface makes sense to me.
But if you think I am fine, then OK by me, will leave alone.
NOw your license plate story has me concerned, I have done all this work with the grill removed! If affects cooling negatively when replaced will throw in towel and junk truck!
Jim
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Aug 8, 2015, 12:06 PM
Post #64 of 65
(1124 views)
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Really doubt grille back on will change anything. You need it for protection at least some for the condenser. If altered that's another thing. Air dam under bumper causes a vacuum under engine at speed and why it's there not for good looks. They bust off nicely too when parking so fix those.
A boatload of engineering thought goes into making mobile A/C. You may recall the J.C. Whitney kits from ages ago for cars that didn't come with A/C at all. Those didn't work for beans but did puff out some cool air.
Use the web for learning the concepts. These couple thread by you on just this truck have touched on a lot and there's tons more down and dirty details about it.
So far and for the record I think you'll still find the #1 reason for a failure begins with a leak not fixed or noticed, lack of lubrication then takes out compressor. Next is high up there probably #2 is too much refrigerant or use of magic tricks in a can claiming to fix everything. Know that's plain junk and sells anyway out there because it seems inherent that people think real fixes are just a rip off - ha!
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Put the grille back on and enjoy your work. It should be fine. If not come back with what changed that is working now.
Good luck, Tom
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jjrbus
User
Aug 8, 2015, 2:22 PM
Post #65 of 65
(1121 views)
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The ac kits!! Heck I remember the heater kits!! I also remember the swamp cooler's that were hung on car windows and canvas bags of water in front of the radiator!! Jim
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