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1993 Dodge Spirit Fuel,spark issues


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Guest
Anonymous Poster

Aug 6, 2008, 3:46 PM

Post #1 of 4 (5176 views)
1993 Dodge Spirit Fuel,spark issues Sign In

Just curious if you don't get spark at the coil but if u bypass it does that have to do with the crank sensor?? Also will the fuel pump not kick on if there is no spark?

Need help ASAP

Car was running fine Sat night and just died and now can't get it started there is no spark?


DanD
Veteran / Moderator
DanD profile image

Aug 7, 2008, 4:06 AM

Post #2 of 4 (5163 views)
Re: 1993 Dodge Spirit Fuel,spark issues Sign In

Not really sure what you mean by

Quote
don't get spark at the coil but if u bypass it does

What are you bypassing?

Engine size would also help?

If there’s no spark and the problem is solely an ignition one; no the computer will not authorize the fuel pump to continue too run.
If all else is normal; you should be able to hear the fuel pump run for a couple of seconds when the ignition is first turned on. This is call the prime cycle; the computer turns the pump on to begin pressurizing the fuel system, allowing the pump to run for the couple of seconds. If the computer doesn’t sense an RPM signal (spark), once you begin to crank the engine; it will leave the pump off.

Dan.

Canadian "EH"






Guest
Anonymous Poster

Aug 7, 2008, 4:25 PM

Post #3 of 4 (5153 views)
Re: 1993 Dodge Spirit Fuel,spark issues Sign In

it is a 2.5l 4 cylinder

if u hook a hot direct from battery to the hot side of coil u have spark so the coil is not bad

have changed the pickup coil, map senser and checked timing any other ideas???


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DanD
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DanD profile image

Aug 8, 2008, 9:37 AM

Post #4 of 4 (5149 views)
Re: 1993 Dodge Spirit Fuel,spark issues Sign In

Back in those years of Chrysler products they had an issue with a common splice connection that fed power to the ignition coil, fuel injectors, alternator field circuit and a portion of the computer, that went bad.

This splice connection was a stamp-welded connection that fused (welded) a number of wires together and then just covered with tape for insulation. The tape wasn’t good enough and it would corrode; allowing portions of the welded wiring too break away.

With a test light connected to coil positive and the ground lead clipped onto a known good ground; turn the ignition on. The test light should light for a couple of seconds and then go off, just like the “prime cycle” of the fuel pump.

If this is not happening; the problem is likely this splice.

There is a chance that the problem is the auto shutdown (ASD) relay; I’ve only had to replace or repair connections at an ASD a few times. I’ve repaired the splice a number of times.

You’ll find the ASD on the left inner fender, along with the starter, fuel pump, AC, a cooling fan relays.

When you turn on the ignition the ASD & fuel pump relays should click on and then off, then turn back on, as you begin to crank the engine (prime cycle).

The ASD will likely have the same color wire leaving it that goes to the different components that it feeds power to.

I don’t have access to my wiring diagrams, right now but I think the wire is a blue or green wire (can’t remember); just have a look at the coil positive, injector & alternator field feeds, they all should be the same color?

The next trick is to find the splice because it is inside the wiring harness, along the left inner fender, close to the auto shutdown relay; somewhere between the battery and the fire wall.

Sorry I’m being a bit vague but I’m at my weekend trailer and don’t have access to my manuals.

Dan.

Canadian "EH"










 
 
 






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