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1994 E150 new tie rod issue


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gooch mango
Novice

Mar 24, 2012, 11:56 AM

Post #1 of 9 (2218 views)
1994 E150 new tie rod issue Sign In

I replaced the tie rod ends and center link (aka right inner tie rod end) on my 1994 Ford E150... a relatively simple job. It went well except for one kinda important thing -- I cannot get the retainer nut joining the left inner tie rod to the center link to tighten to torque specs (75 ft. lbs.). It tightened to about 20 ft. lbs. (a rough guess), and then the threaded post began turning, and the retaining nut can no longer get any tighter. Unsure (It is on there far enough to get the cotter pin in.)

My question: Is it possible to pop off the back of the tie rod end (where the zerk fitting is) and put a wrench on the post, or will that just ruin the brand new tie rod?


Discretesignals
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Discretesignals profile image

Mar 24, 2012, 12:04 PM

Post #2 of 9 (2212 views)
Re: 1994 E150 new tie rod issue Sign In

So the joint is spinning when you go to tighten the nut? If that is the case one trick that I use is taking a large set of channel locks and squeezing the joint into the center link. The pressure should cause the joint to grip the hole it slides through, so you can tighten the nut without it spinning.

There might be other tricks and if there are I am interested in reading about them.





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(This post was edited by Discretesignals on Mar 24, 2012, 12:06 PM)


gooch mango
Novice

Mar 24, 2012, 2:19 PM

Post #3 of 9 (2180 views)
Re: 1994 E150 new tie rod issue Sign In

Hmmm... I think the post thing is tapered, so that just might work. And it'll be a heck of a lot easier than tearing open the backside of the joint. Thanks! I'll try that in the morning. Smile


nickwarner
Veteran / Moderator
nickwarner profile image

Mar 24, 2012, 8:29 PM

Post #4 of 9 (2156 views)
Re: 1994 E150 new tie rod issue Sign In

What I do on these, especially ones with difficulty to grip the bottom, is to pop it apart and take a center punch in your hole and on the taper of the joint. Peening it with the center punch gives it some grip and when you put it in its 99% effective to hold without spinning while you tighten it.


Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Hammer Time profile image

Mar 25, 2012, 4:36 AM

Post #5 of 9 (2146 views)
Re: 1994 E150 new tie rod issue Sign In


Quote
And it'll be a heck of a lot easier than tearing open the backside of the joint.


Huh?



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.



gooch mango
Novice

Mar 25, 2012, 7:09 AM

Post #6 of 9 (2140 views)
Re: 1994 E150 new tie rod issue Sign In


In Reply To
So the joint is spinning when you go to tighten the nut? If that is the case one trick that I use is taking a large set of channel locks and squeezing the joint into the center link. The pressure should cause the joint to grip the hole it slides through, so you can tighten the nut without it spinning.

There might be other tricks and if there are I am interested in reading about them.


Worked like a charm... took all of 5 minutes. I had forgotten that the post was tapered, as it was covered by the boot. If only all of my car problems were so easy to fix!

Thanks!


gooch mango
Novice

Mar 25, 2012, 7:12 AM

Post #7 of 9 (2139 views)
Re: 1994 E150 new tie rod issue Sign In


In Reply To
What I do on these, especially ones with difficulty to grip the bottom, is to pop it apart and take a center punch in your hole and on the taper of the joint. Peening it with the center punch gives it some grip and when you put it in its 99% effective to hold without spinning while you tighten it.


So you are suggesting I should score the post and the hole a bit before I put them together? Rough them up so they don't slide so easy? I'll try that next time. Thanks!


gooch mango
Novice

Mar 25, 2012, 7:20 AM

Post #8 of 9 (2134 views)
Re: 1994 E150 new tie rod issue Sign In


In Reply To

Quote
And it'll be a heck of a lot easier than tearing open the backside of the joint.


Huh?

On the tie rod is some sort of cap (where the zerk fitting goes) that looks like it is pressed into place. I was thinking I would have to pry that cap off, and find some way to grip the base of the threaded post, so I could torque the retaining nut on the other end. I had forgotten that the post itself was tapered, and if I just forced it a bit deeper into the hole, it would grab enough to allow me to torque it down. Fortunately, I didn't need to go down that road thanks to the suggestions from Discretesignals and nickwarner.


Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Hammer Time profile image

Mar 25, 2012, 7:24 AM

Post #9 of 9 (2130 views)
Re: 1994 E150 new tie rod issue Sign In

Be thankful you didn't try that.
There is nothing inside there but the round, ball base that rotates in the encased housing that you were about to destroy.



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.







 
 
 






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