|
|
|
1995 dodge ram 1500 4 wheel drive
|
|
|
| |
|
|
mik05
User
Oct 4, 2012, 2:56 PM
Post #1 of 4
(2050 views)
|
|
1995 dodge ram 1500 4 wheel drive
|
Sign In
|
|
Does any one know where I can get a picture of the drum brakes and what and where the springs placement is supposed to look like on a dodge ram 1500
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Oct 4, 2012, 3:25 PM
Post #2 of 4
(2031 views)
|
|
Re: 1995 dodge ram 1500 4 wheel drive
|
Sign In
|
|
AYOR but should be similar to this. You shouldn't take both side apart or be doing brakes IMO if you really have to ask. Not rocket science on most of these.
Basic idea if it shows..........
Get help if needed. Know that L & R sides are asymmetrically opposite,
T
|
|
| |
|
|
mik05
User
Oct 4, 2012, 4:27 PM
Post #3 of 4
(2016 views)
|
|
Re: 1995 dodge ram 1500 4 wheel drive
|
Sign In
|
|
My problem is that on the drivers side the brake cylinder boots blew out and I replaced it but with in half mile it blew out again, I'm not sure which way the anti rattle spring is supposed to be facing
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Oct 5, 2012, 1:44 AM
Post #4 of 4
(1989 views)
|
|
Re: 1995 dodge ram 1500 4 wheel drive
|
Sign In
|
|
Do you mean the wheel cylinder blew its piston out, fluid leaked and you replaced the wheel cylinder? Those are dust boots. The hydraulic seal is inside. The pins push out on the shoes against return spring force to apply brakes. They can only extend out so far or will blow out as if you push brake with the drum removed you could wreck it.
There's no anti-rattle spring in there! Hold down springs for shoes, two return springs to anchor and one at bottom holds start adjuster from falling out. The rest is for parking brake which if not properly adjusted or frozen will mess up the whole show. These adjustments are in sequence or one will ruin the other's adjustments. Service brake is set first and should self adjust but with some time many don't.
Parking brake hardware operates the shoes without hydraulic pressure thru that bar connecting them with a spring on one end that does serve to stop it from flopping around.
If these parts are frozen, worn out of spec too rusted or broken you about need to toss all the stuff out on both sides, drums turned or replaced, inspect axle grease seal for leaks and plain do a full rear brake job.
Assorted "Erector set" hardware. Said already that these are asymmetrically opposite left to right or call it a "mirror" image much like a left and right hand glove. Star adjuster is reverse threaded for one side and shoe with larger area of friction material goes towards the rear.
The common problems to me are rusted on drums with a ridge making them hard to remove and backing off the star adjuster to make clearance, adjuster that fails to make up for lining wear, hold down springs stressed from forcing drum off can break and any of those metal pieces will ruin the brake crunching around in there.
OK - if that dust boot fell off or pushed off right away it is all messed up. Seems confusing to look at these but this was the way to make a simple brake that lasted well for about a century even before they were hydraulic.
If this confuses you tow it to a shop to properly do a rear brake job. It's brakes so too important to mess up,
T
|
|
| |
|
| | |
|
Auto Repair Home
SEARCH
WHO'S 
LOG 
1989 toyota pickup 3.0 crank no start
Please Help - Knock sound & engine fail
