|
|
JR66
User
Sep 29, 2008, 7:38 PM
Post #1 of 14
(21314 views)
|
|
Bleeding ABS Brakes
|
Sign In
|
|
I replaced the rusted brake line from ABS unit under hood to the tee at the rear axle on my 2000 S10 4X4 pickup. Trying unsuccessfully to bleed them now. I can't get any fluid from rear calipers. Internet search shows some info on mechanical tool to move valves in ABS & also some mention of electronic method to activate solenoids so that fluid can move to all four calipers. But I can't find any info on the Kelsey Hayes ABS version I have that has two rubber covers over mysterious holes. Can anyone advise how to bleed this thing? All traditional (old fashioned) methods fail. Here's a picture.
Thanks,
JR
|
|
Attachments:
|
2000 S10 ABS 001r.jpg
(215 KB)
|
|
| |
|
|
DanD
Veteran
/ Moderator
Sep 30, 2008, 3:51 AM
Post #2 of 14
(21297 views)
|
|
Re: Bleeding ABS Brakes
|
Sign In
|
|
I just had a read through my brake bleeding procedure for this S10 and it didn’t say anything about putting the ABS motors in the home position or having to manipulate the controller electrically for the purpose of bleeding? Some GM’s you do need to but not this one; the ABS unit should be “self bleeding”.
What I’ve had to do with the stubborn systems, is to begin at the master cylinder’s line connections. Bleed the master by cracking the lines open and closed while a helper is working the brake peddle for you. I’m not going to go into the bleeding process; of cracking the line, pushing the peddle, closing the line ECT; you said you’ve bled brakes before?
Once all the air is gone at the master lines and there is good fluid transfer; go to the inlet side of the ABS unit, then the outlet and then go to the wheels.
Most times if all is ok (master?) the thing will bleed out.
One other thing you could try, if you’re working on this thing by yourself. Fill the master to the brim and leave the lid off. Open all the bleeder screws; go and grab a beer and a lawn chair; have a seat and enjoy your beverage; letting gravity do the work for you.
As the different bleeders begin to drip, close them off; pump up the peddle and repeat. After the third or fourth beer, it should be all bled out; if not, go and get another beer and say screw it for the night. LOL
Canadian "EH"
(This post was edited by DanD on Sep 30, 2008, 3:52 AM)
|
|
| |
|
|
JR66
User
Sep 30, 2008, 4:50 AM
Post #3 of 14
(21287 views)
|
|
Re: Bleeding ABS Brakes
|
Sign In
|
|
Many thanks to Dan D. for your advice. I'll try your suggestions when I get home tonight, especially the lawn chair and beer method!
JR
|
|
| |
|
|
way2old
Veteran
/ Moderator
Sep 30, 2008, 3:35 PM
Post #4 of 14
(21273 views)
|
|
Re: Bleeding ABS Brakes
|
Sign In
|
|
Hey Dan---- Can I come work for you?????????????
Being way2old is why I need help from younger minds
|
|
| |
|
|
JR66
User
Oct 2, 2008, 3:59 PM
Post #5 of 14
(21261 views)
|
|
Re: Bleeding ABS Brakes
|
Sign In
|
|
Jeez, I've probably gone thru 1/2 a 30 pack of PBR so far and I'm still not done. But progress is being made! I've got fluid to all four bleeders and now at last have some brake pedal. Every hour or so I bleed the 3 outlet connections at the ABS and all 4 wheel bleeder screws. Seems to get a little better each time. I decided not to bleed the master and inlet to ABS since the master and lines to ABS were never without fluid and it is VERY difficult to get a wrench on the connectors going into the ABS. Usually I get some air at the ABS outlets but only if I wait an hour or so between bleedings. I figure since air bubbles rise I should eventually get the air out of the ABS at the higher outlets without messing with the lower inlets. I hope I live long enough. Wife is getting tired of being the pedal pusher. I keep telling her I'm saving $$$. I hope I'm right. Already had to buy rebuilt front calipers because the bleeder screws broke off in calipers. I drilled them out and broke an easy-out trying to get remaining pieces out. Threads really screwed up. Thought about trying to retap the threads but gave up and bought rebuilt calipers - I can't make a career out of this. Am rationalizing that they probably weren't too good anymore anyway. Luckily the bleeder screws came out okay on the rear calipers. Bleeding is a real pain in the *** compared with pre-ABS. Hope ABS is really worth it.
JR
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Oct 2, 2008, 4:19 PM
Post #6 of 14
(21258 views)
|
|
Re: Bleeding ABS Brakes
|
Sign In
|
|
This should be going faster then this. Once you get fluid to all wheels it should finish up pretty well.
Is everything tight (excepting for brew consumption ) AND is your helper holding pedal still till bleeders are retightend as to no suck back air till the next try AND maintianing master cyl full enough?
Bubbles in lines will push downhill in those spots in brake lines and bleeders are for larger items - in order till it's free of air at the bleeder a couple times or more and that one is done and move on to the next as with any bleeding job.
In short - It should be going along faster once fluid is present at the calipers,
T
|
|
| |
|
|
JR66
User
Oct 2, 2008, 4:39 PM
Post #7 of 14
(21248 views)
|
|
Re: Bleeding ABS Brakes
|
Sign In
|
|
Hi Tom,
Thanks for your reply. Yeah, I'm a little surprised too at the time this is taking. I appreciate your recommendations but I think we're already doing those things okay. After 30 yrs, I've got my wife trained really, really well on brake bleeding - we can almost do it without communicating (now, don't let your mind wander).
I'm pretty sure I have all connections tight. There are two unions in the new line to the back but they don't seem to be leaking. My thought is that there is air in the ABS unit that is just taking time to work out. It took quite a while to get any pressure build up at all and now I have a fair amount but not quite good enough yet. I'll give you an update after a few more tries. Thanks again.
JR
|
|
| |
|
|
JR66
User
Oct 10, 2008, 6:33 PM
Post #8 of 14
(21190 views)
|
|
Re: Bleeding ABS Brakes
|
Sign In
|
|
Just thought I'd give you an update. I replaced wife with a piece of 1 inch dia pipe 21 1/2 inches long. It is perfect length to place between depressed brake pedal and metal seat brkt right under the seat forward/backward lever. I used a piece of vacuum hose to slip over the bleeder screws and submerged other end in a 2 liter coke bottle with a couple of inches of brake fluid. Bled RR, LR, RF, LF in that order. Went around many, many times, depressing the brake pedal each time and holding down with the pipe, bleeding from each screw, getting air bubbles, and then switching to the next bleeder screw when I wasn't getting any more air from that bleed screw. Each time I repeated the cycle I continued to get air bubbles. Finally stopped when the pedal felt pretty good because I couldn't bear to do any more, probably did the cycles for about 3 hrs. I'd say that I'm probably 90% done - very good brake action but still not quite perfect. I plan to do another round of bleeding some time after I've forgotten how much of a pain in the *** it was. I've never used a pressure bleeder. Would it speed up the process? Is it expensive?
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Oct 11, 2008, 12:58 AM
Post #9 of 14
(21185 views)
|
|
Re: Bleeding ABS Brakes
|
Sign In
|
|
So far (famous last words) I've gotton away without the pressure bleeder which would speed things up.
I think it's time to get the wife back to finish this off. That and a couple 30 packs and call this done!
30 years of training may not be enough - make sure wife/helper goes slow with the pumping action and holds steady pressure - - shut bleeder before flow quits* - let pedal up slowly for each next try and of COURSE never let the master cyl run too low.
LOL - * = I know - that's like stopping the flow when you get caught behind a tree relieving yourself from the 30 pack but you gotta try!
T
|
|
| |
|
|
JR66
User
Nov 15, 2009, 5:43 PM
Post #10 of 14
(20115 views)
|
|
Re: Bleeding ABS Brakes
|
Sign In
|
|
Just an update... Have lost most brake action two more times due to rusted brake lines so I said enough 3 strikes etc and just changed all the brake lines 100%. Bought a vacuum bleeder from Griots Garage catalog. Works great - just connect to your compressor and it creates a vacuum and draws the fluid and air thru the bleeder screws. You do need a fairly good compressor because it uses a lot of air.
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Nov 15, 2009, 8:07 PM
Post #11 of 14
(20107 views)
|
|
Re: Bleeding ABS Brakes
|
Sign In
|
|
AND we bailed the company out!
I have a pet peeve with rust-able brake a fuel lines then being told I have to wear a safety belt! I've seen those pull right out of flooring also - nice!
T
|
|
| |
|
|
Hammer Time
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Nov 15, 2009, 8:16 PM
Post #12 of 14
(20101 views)
|
|
Re: Bleeding ABS Brakes
|
Sign In
|
|
What are you saying now Tom?
Are you saying GM is the only one that gets rusty brake lines? I remember bailing out Chrysler twice in the last 30 years and they still can't turn a profit.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
We offer help in answering questions, clarifying things or giving advice but we are not a substitute for an on-site inspection by a professional.
|
|
| |
|
|
chickenhouse
Enthusiast
Nov 15, 2009, 11:03 PM
Post #13 of 14
(20097 views)
|
|
Re: Bleeding ABS Brakes
|
Sign In
|
|
Don't have to wear a seatbelt in a Model-a, brake lines never leaked either! Were mechanical.. Am I starting to sound pro Ford? No bail out but I'm not a Ford guy.
|
|
| |
|
|
Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Nov 16, 2009, 1:59 AM
Post #14 of 14
(20093 views)
|
|
Re: Bleeding ABS Brakes
|
Sign In
|
|
No - I've owned all of them they should be shot or out of biz for sh*t head engineering!
Why do you think the Ashien's cars took over?
Tom
|
|
| |
|
Auto Repair Home
SEARCH
WHO'S 
LOG 
1989 toyota pickup 3.0 crank no start
Please Help - Knock sound & engine fail
