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mWhit
User
Oct 4, 2008, 1:22 PM
Post #1 of 11
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Name this Leaking Part!
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Hey folks, this is inside a 95 GMC Sierra SL with 5.7L engine. I have antifreeze leeking out of this joint. It goes into the engine and most of it is made of metal. It has a plastic interior piece that i think has worn out, making it lose enough to leak. I am ganna go down to autozone and see what i need to buy to fix it, but dont know what it is exactly. Any help would be cool.
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Oct 4, 2008, 8:10 PM
Post #2 of 11
(4010 views)
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Re: Name this Leaking Part!
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***************
That sure looks like a heater hose and would be an assembly. Those are going to give you a hard time to remove.
Got just the piece (OE - GM in front of me for a 97 (5.7) that is like that but goes directly to rubber hose that I haven't needed YET! Best guess from just measuring is it's 1 inch hex and a flare nut crow foot would probably be a good tool for this or cut it off and use a socket to replace the whole thing.
Haven't done battle with one yet but there's room for it to object to being removed so use care to not damage the FM part of the connection,
T
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mWhit
User
Oct 4, 2008, 8:17 PM
Post #3 of 11
(4007 views)
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Re: Name this Leaking Part!
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Sorry im not that great with this, but coolant would be leaking from a heater hose? The metal piece seems to screw directly into the engine. havnt yet brought it by autozone to have it checked out yet, just got my electric problem fixed, so this is next.
(This post was edited by mWhit on Oct 4, 2008, 8:19 PM)
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Oct 4, 2008, 8:43 PM
Post #4 of 11
(4002 views)
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Re: Name this Leaking Part!
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ABSOLUTELY! Engine coolant/anti-freeze is running thru heater hoses. That part is either installed in water pump or intake manifold. If your real nice I'll actuall go look at the 97 5.7 Vortec. The larger is the return line from the heater core and the smaller is the feed line to the heater core in most vehicles when hoses are different diameters.
This is NPT threaded - meaning plumbing thread stuff. These could be faked with hardware store brass/copper or even iron pipe parts to to "barbed" hose fittings if this needs to be faked without proper OE GM parts.
Intake manifold gaskets have been an issue with these engines as they also seal coolant. Try to clean where it leaks to be sure just what's leaking upon it's return of coolant coming out.
Note: The part with the hex and the receiving hole are probably "dissimilar" metals and those can get stuck like they are welded.
That's a pic of a "crow foot" flare nut wrench which gets into tight spot. You may need something like this in the location if it can go over the hose at all. As said before when you need a better grip on all six sides of an item like that you can cut it right off and choose a six point deep socket for better grip. These can be a battle as said. I'd win this one but have the wild assortment of tools the price of which would bring you to your knees so it it's tough to get at it might be worth letting a shop do it vs buying tools for a one time thing.
I'm up for a while and will really go look at my own similar engine to see just exactly what your are up for if you choose to do this yourself.
Whatever you do - keep coolant full at radiator cap and don't allow it to get low and overheat over this,
T
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DanD
Veteran
/ Moderator
Oct 5, 2008, 4:07 AM
Post #5 of 11
(3995 views)
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Re: Name this Leaking Part!
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Not to contradict Tom by any means but what you’re dealing with is a “quick coupler” for the heater tube (hose).
To remove the tube you would push in or pull out the plastic tangs of the coupler and then pull the tube out, no need to cut the tube, unless it is seized in the coupler, due to corrosion.
The dissimilar metals of the tube, coupler and manifold; along with the possible acid content in the coolant, is the perfect breeding ground for corrosion to form.
If you were to remove the serpentine belt and the belt tensioner that would give you the room required and make things much easier,
During the removal of the tube; do not bend the tube; remove all of the tubes retaining brackets, so that it is free to move. When the tube is reinstalled it must be 100% centered in the coupler or it will likely leak again.
The coupler uses a rubber O-ring to seal the tube to the coupler, this is what usually fails but it is not serviced by itself; the coupler must be purchased as an assembly.
The end of the aluminum tube that plugs into the coupler needs to be cleaned and checked for cracks or pitting due to corrosion.
Some of these couplers were made of a soft white metal and again due to corrosion will break off with every little effort on your part. If this happens; then you’re in trouble and will need the skills required to remove the broken piece inside the manifold? If the one on your engine is of actual steel; then it’s rarely an issue of them breaking.
Like Tom has said the threads of the coupler are pipe thread; which means the thread diameter at the end of the coupler is smaller then at the base of the hexagon.
Be careful when installing the new coupler into the manifold; it must be tight not to leak but because of the pipe thread it will not bottom out and feel tight, as what a regular bolt would. Over tightening the coupler may cause the manifold to crack due to the expanding threads. As for how tight that’s hard to explain; it’s more of a feeling then an actual torque rating. So tighten it as much as you dare and not break anything?
Most new couplers will already have some form of thread sealant applied to the threads but it wouldn’t hurt too add a little extra of your own. Teflon tape or plumber’s pipe dope will work and give you a better chance of the coupler sealing in the threads of the manifold; threads that likely have a little damage, again due to corrosion.
Keep it fun.
Dan.
Canadian "EH"
(This post was edited by DanD on Oct 5, 2008, 4:12 AM)
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Oct 5, 2008, 6:09 AM
Post #6 of 11
(3989 views)
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GM Quick connect heater hose fittings
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DAN - THANK YOU!
You just compelled me to go actually look at my own on vehicle and re-inspect the new bronze like, screw in "quick" connector. As always you are absolutely right the the seal is metal pipe to this fool trouble maker which could only have been designed for speed of assembly when new as a plain outlet and clamp would have been fine IMO.
No matter: The corrosion condition will count here. On the 97 Vortec 5.7 this item is on the return to intake and on the feed for heater it's just a pressed in outlet on the water pump. Changes for who knows why? My alternator is where the compressor is in the 95 5.7 shown.
I haven't done battle yet with one of these and would probably use real plumbing parts to barbed hose then work to restrain hose from rubbing anything with wire harness type covering.
The OE (GM) bronze quick connector I have also has a flow retrictor (internally shows smaller hole in internal plastic peice for coolant flow) usually associated with feed line as to not overwhelm heater core with pressure as you and I know. This was handed to me when I bought my truck at a GM dealer as there was a coolant leak question that wasn't clear for a while and wasn't this item as it turned out. They knew I'd do this myself despite any warranty on the thing. Now I can see that the one I have is for the system here and NOT for my own 1997 as you shouldn't be retricting return flow! I can just see that this may come as a hose assembly for full proper repair and may not be so DIY friendly and all bets are that parts will be more costly than you would expect for such a simple job at a glance.
May I suggest that before tearing into this that it is known the all parts are available to avoid down time if all new stuff ends up the only best option or the vehicle could be down while waiting.
I've renamed the subject line as this may get surfed out and I don't want silly errors on my part causing issues for anyone out there,
T
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mWhit
User
Oct 5, 2008, 8:48 AM
Post #7 of 11
(3986 views)
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Re: GM Quick connect heater hose fittings
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OK ive been looking around on autozone and a local O'reilly's site, and found this quick connector part that looks very similar. I havnt tried to take the hose apart yet just in case i cant get it back together without buying all new like you said. Autozone has a 'heater hose assembly' but has no picture of it to help me out. On O'reilly's i found this connector only, cheap for $10. It looks very similar, could this possibly be what i need instead of buying a whole new assembly? Thanks for the help so far by the way, this site has been extremely helpful.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/...35¤tPage=0
(This post was edited by mWhit on Oct 5, 2008, 9:00 AM)
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Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky
/ Moderator
Oct 5, 2008, 9:46 AM
Post #8 of 11
(3975 views)
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Re: GM Quick connect heater hose fittings
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Heater Hose Connector  
Click on image to see enlarged view
Item#: NBH9929
Price: $22.99
tax and shipping not included
Disclaimer: The stated price may vary from the in store price and may change at anytime.
Attributes:
Product Features:Quick-Lok Coolant Hose Connectors Provide a Fast
Easy Way to Connect Replacement Heater Hose on Cars & Trucks. Car Manufacturers Have Used them for Years for Hard-To-Reach Connections.
Size:Quick-Lock Straight Connector - 3/4" Tube O.D. (Fits Hose I.D 3/4")
Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS)
****************************
This from NAPA is what I keep finding out there and IS NOT what I think you will need and similar to the one you found at the link you posted at O'Reilleys. Your aluminum hose looks like it will be fine for re-use but the seals in the part that screws into the engine would have the sealing parts needed and I don't see those sold separately.
____________
Know this..... If you tear into this now you probably will disable use of the vehicle unless the right parts are at hand. Sorry that I'm having trouble finding just what you need and haven't done this yet but do understand what the thing is doing - lousy crap!
Dan knew exactly which isn't surprising - it's Sunday now so you may be stuck with me for the day. What stinks is I have the stupid thing right in front of me brand new, complete pre-treaded with thread sealer from GM.
If you can spare the vehicle being down you could take your old parts right to a GM truck dealer and I'd bet this stuff is all in stock at their prices of course but could end the chase down.
As said - I'd defeat this using the bent pipe and regular heater hose and get plumbing parts to that this quick connect bullsh*t is over with but I'm not suggesting you go that route as if hose rubs somewhere wrong you'll be in trouble soon.
~~~~~~~~~~~~
If it's not leaking too bad right now and you need the vehicle just make certain it stays full of proper coolant and check as often as needed till you get everything needed. Bring extra pre-mixed coolant with you.
**********
Way out there in an emergency: - If you get in trouble while driving you could cut the smaller rubber gasket (sprung one with a pie slice cut) of the radiator cap ruining it's ability to hold pressure but maintaining the "closed" system use of the recovery tank such that you would then have a zero pressure system that would slow a leak down a lot. Then you would need a new rad cap.
I'll try to post your first pic below this for quicker reference,
T
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mWhit
User
Oct 5, 2008, 10:26 AM
Post #9 of 11
(3971 views)
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Re: GM Quick connect heater hose fittings
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Thanks Tom, yeh the one you posted has the correct female end, but the male end would have to be threaded like the one i posted. I'll fill it up and wait it out till i can have it checked out in person by someone to ensure i get the right part. I really appreciate the info. I'll let you know if i find anything else out until then.
-Mike
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mWhit
User
Oct 13, 2008, 6:16 PM
Post #10 of 11
(3927 views)
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Re: GM Quick connect heater hose fittings
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OK, some good news and bad news. First the good news. The part that i linked from O'reillys (not the blue ones posted above) is the correct piece. It looks different because GM put out an improved one made of stronger metal because they realized that the fragile cast metal one wasn't very smart on their part. Conveniently located next to this new part is a removal tool for when the old one snaps off in your manifold. Not IF, but When. The bad news for me and i'm sure a lot of other people, is that tool doesn't do much good when the old part has literally become a part of the engine. I hammered that removal tool as deep as it would go, only for it to shave the hole into a bigger one. So for now my truck sits in the driveway with a disgustingly screwed up connection. The cast metal of the old piece is shaved all the way to the threads of the manifold but still will not come free. So tomorrow i have to see what kind of tools i have at work to try to make any headway at all on this. So my suggestion to anyone with this initial problem, Don't take it upon yourself to even bother trying it yourself unless you have a ton of free time and a lot of specialty tools.
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Jeff Norfolk
Enthusiast
Oct 13, 2008, 7:55 PM
Post #11 of 11
(3922 views)
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Re: GM Quick connect heater hose fittings
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Here is a bit of advise now that you are where you are with this problem. Get a small flat head screw driver and a small hammer. Chip the remaining broken quick connect away. Take you time it will come out easily. The hole size is one inch pipe thread. So go buy a thread tap this size to clean out the hole when you are done chipping the old stuff away. Dont run the tap all the way through the old hole because this hole is tapered and is made to tighten down in the taper. Run the tape down about 3/4 of the way. Put a bit of silicone around the threads of the new quick connect before installing. Don't worry about the junk that goes down in the hole. Just try to get the big chucks out and the small stuff won't hurt. Goo Luck
Jeff
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