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steering resistance then clunk


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Guest
Anonymous Poster
cbass655@hotmail.com

Aug 14, 2008, 5:37 AM

Post #1 of 4 (1451 views)
steering resistance then clunk Sign In

why does my steering have resistance when a turn it and seems like it breaks loose and can hear and fell a slight clunk?


dmac0923
Enthusiast

Aug 14, 2008, 8:40 AM

Post #2 of 4 (1442 views)
Re: steering resistance then clunk Sign In

your going to have to be a little more detailed about the symptoms. also year make model, mileage of your vehicle helps.

the more info the easier to pin point the problem.

does it happen when turning the wheel parked, highways speeds, parking lot speed?
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2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee
2002 Ford Ranger
2004 Toyota Corolla
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Guest
Anonymous Poster

Aug 14, 2008, 11:35 AM

Post #3 of 4 (1441 views)
Re: steering resistance then clunk Sign In

its a 98 ford windstar v6 3.0 with 125,000 miles. It doesnt do it when it parked only when im driving. It also seems like it stops when the van is warmed up. When i turm the wheel slightly it feels like it wants to stop but it jerks and goes the rest of the way. It kinda fells like it gets caught on something then lets go. Its not to hard of a resistance but you can still feel and hear it.


Tom Greenleaf
Ultimate Carjunky / Moderator
Tom Greenleaf profile image

Aug 14, 2008, 12:42 PM

Post #4 of 4 (1438 views)
Re: steering resistance then clunk Sign In

Ah ha! Winstars tend to "eat" rack and pinionsUnsure First verify it's tight and safe front end wise. What can happen is the fluid gets sticky from the heat it's exposed to and make some sticky.

My suggestion for that is: Find and use a product called "TransX" -- it really does disolve varnish in PS systems - your call on using it in transmissions but is for both. I've clearly solved problems that weren't mechanically worn with this stuff. Not a coverup but a correction. I also don't care for power flushing PS systems so will just suck out all I can several times and replace with new synthetic ATF which is within spec for many cars and I'm about sure for this one too. It'll take several "empty what you can" and fills to get most of it new. Allow a couple days for product to work then change it out. If no results in a couple days it probably won't fix it.

This is not going to correct a worn tie rod end, ball joint, perhaps a strut binding - just varnish. These and many vehicles make excessive heat underhood and the PS fluid take a hit as does trans fluid but that's usually cooled by your radiator.

That product won't solve this instantly if it will at all. Use sparingly and change the fluid by dilution like I said would be my course of action. You may not have a suction pump for oils - a "turkey" baster will work for a while till the oil swells up its rubber. Good grief - please use that only for the car if used and get a new one for food!

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